Doctoral Theses (Textiles & Design)

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The advanced characterisation of gas plasma treated polymers
(Heriot-Watt University, 2007) Warren, Jamie MacNeill
An auto-ethnographic sensorial investigation through woven textiles in the creation of personal memorial to loss
(Heriot-Watt University, 2023-05) Pankhurst, Fiona Margaret; Malins, Professor Julian
The research addressed the following questions. Can visual images created through drawing, and tactile memories from the woven translation of those drawings, connect the bereaved to personal memories of a lost loved one and to the lived experience of losing that person? What is the role of narrative in creating a personal memorial to loss, and how does this differ in the creation of collective memorials to loss? A multi-method qualitative approach was adopted, combining auto-ethnography with reflexive phases of drawing, weaving, and writing in reflective journals and on specially designed analysis sheets. A purposively sampled group of artists articulating loss and grief through their practice, were compared to the author’s sensorial and experiential interpretation of personal loss and grief. Study of sensory memory, and materiality of textiles and garments relating to bereavement, provided contextualisation. A hand-knitted jumper and Filofax diary belonging to a deceased parent, inspired the research practice: the vacant jumper acting as a metaphor for the empty space left behind physically and emotionally when a loved one dies. The first contribution to knowledge showed that the weaving, when stimulated by the somatosensorial process of manual creation, aroused and enhanced remembered emotions of the lived experience of losing a beloved parent, providing greater insight and cognisance of living through loss. The second contribution was a weave sampling and testing method that could be applied to alternative weave practice research. A final contribution showed that specificity of individual narrative differentiated personal memorials to loss from the shared narratives of creative collective memorials to loss.
Coloration of polypropylene : prospects and challenges
(Heriot-Watt University, 2006) Ahmed, Syed Iqbal
Crystal engineering of CI pigment red 57:1 for the modification of application performance
(Heriot-Watt University, 2007) Mackay, Jennifer L.
Decolonising design and heritage in craft development courses : examples from Sri Lanka, India and Scotland
(Heriot-Watt University, 2018-09) Greru, Greruge Chamithri Buddhini; Kalkreuter, Doctor Britta
Craft tends to be recognised both as a material culture and as a practice which ranges from local production schemes to global design industries. As much as it is a cultural asset, craft is also valued highly as an economic asset that offers development opportunities to most parts of the world, where ‘Craft Development’ becomes a concern of national and international agencies which exercise a hegemonic view, and is often said to marginalise the local participation during that process. When development cascades to the more discreet levels of the grassroot communities, precarious conditions are created that affect the material culture of craft objects, ideas of creativity, labour practices, class structures, the identities of makers, production processes and markets. It is also the case that corporate and government regulations put in place to ameliorate such issues actually exacerbate them. However, little is known about how the ‘local people’ adapt to these changes alongside a hegemonic view and in return the way they construct their everyday realities. In this context, multiple actors are involved in shaping craft development discourse (e.g. international and national institutions, governments, NGOs, businesses, designers, design schools etc.) where they use ‘heritage’ and ‘design’ to create a particular view about craft development and to talk about it. By mapping how local heritage craft is understood in relation to the global design industry, who mediates and how they mediate in this local-global process, a multi-sited ethnographic research strategy is adopted by following people, metaphor, story and things in, Sri Lanka, India and Scotland—which also provides a comparative interface between East and West. The analysis of the case study and fieldwork data argues for a ‘decolonising’ situation being promoted for design and heritage, moving away from the established authorised notions to have more marginalised viewpoints included. Ways in which this might be achieved were tested as part of this study, through anthropological enquiry, and in the form of a ‘charrette’. In doing so the research attempts to fill one of the critical gaps in both heritage and design studies—that is to propose ‘approaches’ to increase community participation. This is also a major limitation of UNESCO’s 2003 convention on Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH), of which traditional craft is a part. The research concludes by offering insights into the formation of policy and practice through an interdisciplinary framework that combines heritage, craft, and design and anthropology.
The design of mood changing clothing based on fibre optics and photovoltaic technologies
(Heriot-Watt University, 2012-05) Yang, Danying; Stylios, Professor George; Coburn, Theresa
The determination of Dyers' perceived components of colour difference (depth, brightness and hue) between twp similar colours from theor spectral reflectance values
(Heriot-Watt University, 2011-03) Farooq, Salma; Wardman, Professor R.H.
An algorithm, called the WSF algorithm, was developed which could predict the dyers‟ attributes of colour difference (depth, ΔD, brightness, ΔB, and hue, ΔH*) from the reflectance values of a pair of dyeings, enabling the dyer to take full advantage of colorimetric analysis. The algorithm was based on extensive experimental work to map surfaces of constant visual depth throughout the colour space and the thesis describes the methodology and the necessary calculations to determine the ΔD, ΔB and ΔH values of a pair of dyed samples. This algorithm was compared to other existing algorithms (the DBH and the Sato models) using two data sets with 49 dyed pairs for data set 1 and 117 dyed pairs for data set 2 respectively. The correlation of the values of ΔD, ΔB and ΔH determined using the WSF algorithm with the DBH and the Sato models showed an excellent relationship between these three algorithms for both the data sets. Qualitative comparison of the visual assessments of data set 2 with the WSF algorithm was encouraging but the quantitative comparison of the visual assessment for data set 1 was disappointing. The pre-requisite of the WSF algorithm is the six equi-depth surfaces which have been defined numerically in the CIELAB colour space and previously reported as WSI depth surfaces. The first stage of this algorithm was to generate, using the WSI algorithm, the equi-depth line in the L* C* plane that passes through the L* C* coordinates of the standard. The K/S values of the batch were then iterated, until its depth became equal to that of the standard. At this point, the precise location of the batch on the equi-depth surface might be different from that of the standard. The linear distances between the batch and the standard, gave the differences in depth and brightness between the standard and the batch. A new approach was investigated for the hue correction of dyed pairs, where the hue of the batch was different from that of the standard. Real data of highest possible chroma values from Munsell colour atlas were used to create maximum chroma boundaries which were found necessary for the hue correction of the batch. It was noted that the DBH and the Sato models also incorporated hue correction of the batch. The WSF algorithm described in Chapter 4 contained an iterative stage which created an additional complexity in programming. Therefore an alternative version of the WSF algorithm was developed, called the linear WSF model, which avoided the need for iteration and yielded the same results. This linear WSF algorithm strongly correlated with the WSF (iterative) model and also to other empirical models as well.
Developing and testing a training program to promote creativity among Saudi female fashion design students : concentrating on a combination of design behaviours, namely visual literacy, creative thinking and use of modelling systems, in the early stages of the design process.
(Heriot-Watt University, 2023-07) Alaboudi, Mona Ali I.; Kalkreuter, Doctor Britta; Malins, Doctor Julian
This case study research aimed to develop and test a training program that promotes Saudi female fashion design students’ creativity in the early stages of the design process. It also investigated the factors that contributed to its results. The training program targeted a combination of design behaviours including visual literacy, use of creative thinking techniques, use of modelling systems and proposed that enhancing these behaviours together in the early stages of the design process could help improve students’ creativity. A comprehensive review of the literature in creativity enhancement in design was conducted to inform the development of the training program. An embedded design of mixed methods was employed, in which a qualitative method, in the form of a semi structured interview, was embedded within a quantitative method, in the form of a quasi-experiment with a pre-test-post-test control and experimental group design, to provide a deep and thorough understanding of the effect of the proposed training program on students’ creativity. The findings showed a significant enhancement in students’ awareness of creativity and the creative design process, and significant improvements in all targeted creative abilities in terms of fluency, originality, and creativity, with fluency being the most increased creative metric and creativity the least. The findings also revealed the students’ perspective on how people in their cultures understand and appreciate creativity in fashion and how this influenced their creativity. The findings also addressed the influence of students’ personal attitudes on their creative behaviours and abilities in the early stages of the design process.
Developing sustainable fabrics with plant-based formulations
(Heriot-Watt University, 2022-04) Thakker, Alka Madhukar; Spark, Doctor Roger; Sun, Doctor Danmei
Sustainability is at the fore, so the textile industry is ambitiously parading towards alternative ecological materials to refute the air and water pollution from petroleum-based contenders. Hence the envisaged research aimed to create plant-based formulations for application on wool and cotton fabrics. Firstly, the instigated study explored and identified eight new sources of native flora enclosing copper and ferrous element to be implemented as biomordants and colourants on cotton fabrics. These discoveries would assist in circumventing the depletion of corresponding mineral ores hence sustainable. The techniques of extraction, mordanting and colouration with natural plant materials were executed ecologically. The ATR-FTIR, FAAS, UV-Vis Spectrophotometer and ANOVA outcomes inferred the cotton fabric biomordanted with black cherry stems and coloured with hops flowers to be most concentrated in the chelated form of ferrous element content of 11 mg/l and copper element content of 6.49 mg/l, respectively hence gaining the K/S value of 7.05 and demonstrating 87.02% of protection from ultraviolet rays. The spent solution DO and ORP levels measured 8.05 and 129.2 mV, respectively hence safe to aquatic life and could be readily upscaled. The sustainable fabrics developed with rue leaves and mugwort leaves, dandelion, nettle, and bilberry leaves were equally promising. Secondly, water-based inks were formulated from plant extracts distilling blue from bio indigo leaves, red from quebracho red bark and yellow from the flame of the forest flowers extracts. The sought-after black colour was achieved by implementing the primary colour theory. The concocted plant-based inks were scrutinised for stoichiometry, rheology, colour yield, inkjet print quality and coffee ring effect employing a viscometer, conductivity meter and USB microscope. The viscosity range of 8.5 to 10 cP, the relative density of 1.06, conductivity value of 2.51 mS/cm, the surface tension of 60 mN/m and pH of 4.9 was inferred to be most effective in obtaining the K/S values acquired on inkjet printing of wool and cotton fabrics. Another objective was to study the implications of plasma surface modification upon the treated and untreated wool and cotton fabrics, subsequently inkjet printed with plant based inks. The colour values and fastness properties remarkedly improved after plasma surface treatment. These findings were supported by data achieved from optical tensiometer, ATR-FTIR, drop test and SEM, justifying the enhanced wettability of the modified fabrics. The factorial experiment was designed for this segment of research, and it was further validated with ANOVA one-way test.
Development of additively manufactured novel 3D cellular structures for protective clothing
(Heriot-Watt University, 2024-03) Channa, Saadullah; Sun, Doctor Danmei; Stylios, Professor George. K.
Protective clothing shields body parts from impact, absorbing energy to minimise or prevent damage. Recent research has shown significant emphasis on the use of hard or a combination of hard and soft materials. The aim of this research was to design and manufacture novel 3D cellular structures that could provide low-velocity impact resistance and flexibility to wearers. Six different types of 3D cellular structures were developed using stereolithography (SLA) additive manufacturing technique with two different types of flexible resin materials. Theoretical and experimental studies were conducted to evaluate the low-velocity impact resistance of these flexible 3D cellular structures. Experimental studies were carried out using a customised inhouse free fall “impact drop test” setup, where impact forces transmitted through the impacted structures were captured via a capacitive force sensor underneath the structure, in the form of a real-time impact force versus time plot. The results indicated that the re-entrant honeycomb (AU) cellular structure made from Liqcreate and Prusa flexible materials experienced the lowest peak impact force, respectively. Additionally, a static uniaxial compression test was performed to examine the deformation behaviour of all 3D-printed cellular structures. The results revealed that the AU cellular structure had excellent energy absorption in a wide displacement range. To predict and validate the impact resistance response of two novel, AU and 3D honeycomb (HC) cellular structures, finite element (FE) models were developed using commercial FE software ABAQUS. Moreover, the predicted responses of FE models were highly correlated to the experimental results. Overall, the research for this study indicates that such a novel 3D AU cellular structure, made from a single flexible material, has the potential for application as personal protective equipment (PPE) to prevent impact injuries to knees, hips, elbows, and shoulders. This structure would ensure wear comfort, enable body motions while offering an impact-resistant solution.
Development of an algorithm for the numerical specification of standard depths of colour
(Heriot-Watt University, 2006) Saiful Islam, A. K. M.
Environmentally conscious fashion through responsible coloration techniques applied to sustainable fabrics : colouring outside the lines
(Heriot-Watt University, 2017-10) Ellams, Dawn; Christie, Professor Robert
Colour for fashion and textiles is an immediately obvious aesthetic concern, both for designer and consumer. The environmental consequences in the creation and application of colour and the implications of the processes used in aiming to produce future sustainable fashion and textiles are less obvious and often overlooked. The purpose of the research described in this thesis was to explore reducing the environmental impact of coloured fashion and textiles through how they are designed and produced, questioning if coloured fashion and textiles can be sustainable? The research was conducted at the design/technology interface, carried out in collaboration with Lenzing, an Austrian fibre manufacturer. The newly developed interdisciplinary methodology provides a design driven framework from which to explore the relationship between fibre, colour and garment to identify the challenges and opportunities in producing coloured fashion & textiles. The creativity of design thinking is underpinned with the technical inquiry of coloration technology. The outcomes of the research provide innovative sustainability solutions for designing and producing coloured fashion and textiles. The thesis establishes the current state of knowledge for the designing and producing of coloured fashion and textiles with reduced environmental impact, exploring both natural and synthetic sources of colour. A gap in knowledge relating to the sustainable coloration of cellulose fibres is highlighted resulting in the research direction being specifically focused on the regenerated cellulose fibre lyocell. The research outcomes provide two key approaches to colour for fashion and textiles, each based within the biological lifecycle, these being; sustainable and responsible coloration. For sustainable coloration where the biological life cycle is uninterrupted, a ‘cyclical model’ is developed, specifically focused on the utilization of a natural dye extracted from a by-product of lyocell fibre manufacture, this model provides a method for sustainable coloration that is of a commercial scale and technical standard. For responsible coloration, where the biological life cycle is interrupted through the introduction of additional chemical’s for pre and post coloration stages as well as the use of petrochemical based synthetic dyes during coloration a carefully selected set of reactive dyes is used that provide minimal environmental impact, the preparation and finishing stages are explored and a method of best practice developed that minimises chemical, energy and water usage of pre-creative coloration stages. Within the responsible coloration research the technical inquiry identifies the use of bi-functional dyes, the chemistry of these dyes inspires the creative inquiry and research outcome of ‘bi-surface fabrics’, screen print and digital print methods are merged with technical processes and auxiliary chemical’s minimized or removed to create a new approach to coloration that reduces environmental impact and provides an innovative bi-surface fabric. Through creating two surfaces within a single piece of fabric, the designer essentially can design a second life at the initial design stage for the garment the fabric is used to construct, ultimately extending the lifetime of the garments use phase within its lifetime to optimize the embedded energy from production stages and reduce waste from premature disposal. The thesis presented involves traditional argument encompassing elements of both technology and design. As part of the design research process, a physical collection of samples and prototype garments was also produced, and these are referenced and documented photographically within the thesis.
Evaluating standardized pressure for garments used in scar management : pressure for burns scar therapy
(Heriot-Watt University, 2019-09) Syron-Jones, Dawn; Macintyre, Doctor Lisa
Pressure garments are used to treat scars after major trauma such as burns to suppress the over development of scars. Pressure garments can alleviate the patients discomfort caused by the appearance of the developing scar tissue as well as pain and itching that can be experienced. Some hospitals have in house teams making bespoke pressure garments for patients. The current method used in UK hospitals applies a reduction factor of between 10 and 20% to produce garments. There is little evidence of the pressure delivered by in-house or any pressure garments as pressure sensor equipment is often not available, time consuming and difficult to use and therefore pressure is not measured in clinics at garment fitting. An audit of pressures delivered by 8 previously made pressure garments was conducted. The fabric that had been used to make those garments was tested and a Pressure Garment Design (PGD) Tool was made based on the equations generated from this test data. The historical patient and garment dimensions were entered to the PGD tool. The audit showed that the reduction factor of 20% had exerted between 15mmHg and 54mmHg on these patient’s limbs. A pilot study was then undertaken to compare the standard 20% reduction factor method to the ‘Laplace Law’ method of calculating pressure garment dimensions using a PGD tool. 4 participants were enrolled in the study. Three garments were produced for each participant to trial, one using the reduction method currently used and two that were designed to exert known pressures of 15mmHg and 25mmHg. The garments were worn and washed in rotation for approximately 8 weeks. As is standard practise in clinic, all garments were assessed by the therapist to ensure they were suitable for use by the Participant and the scars assessed for maturation. Prior to issuing the garments and during the study the pressure delivered by the garments was measured using a PICOPRESS pressure monitor. The manual method of calculating garment dimensions using a calculator is time consuming and less accurate than The Pressure Garment Design tool, which proved easy to use, and versatile for the quick adjustment of measurement and pressure values for producing finished garment dimensions. The measuring process and resulting data highlighted problems with measuring pressure on such small limbs. The pressure delivered using all garments varied on the individual due to variations in soft tissue and bony areas and an ability to only measure pressure on flatter body parts of the smallest limbs, which indicates that pressure readings taken on the individual may not be a true indication of the average pressure delivered. The data collected from the Pressure Garment design tool, predicted pressures and the pressure readings on the cylinder, confirmed that the Pressure Garment Design Tool can be used to produce garments capable of delivering a known pressure, and that the reduction factor method delivers a varied pressure in an individual garment on different limb circumferences ranging from 52mmHg on a 17.2cm circumference to 15mmHg on a 37.2cm circumference.
An evaluation of powernet fabric characteristics and their impact on pressures exerted to small circumference limbs
(Heriot-Watt University, 2008) Bell, Pippa
Evaluation of selected contemporary biomaterials and surface treatments for soft tissue repair prosthesis
(Heriot-Watt University, 2010-03) Nairn, Michael Douglas
The aim of this project was to determine the best materials and surface treatments for soft tissue repair and to enhance our understanding of material / cell interactions by comparing the response of human cells growing on a selection of currently approved and novel biomaterials. This study focused on comparing the materials and also investigated the effect of modifying the surfaces using gas plasma and other treatments with the aim of enhancing cell growth. In addition, chitosan was studied to examine the reported bacteriostatic effect and promotion of human cell growth. Chitosan has many properties but this research focused on its reported acceleration of wound healing haemostatic and bacteriostatic properties. To examine the bacteriostatic properties of chitosan, a number of experimental designs were used. The bacteriostatic study led onto a selection of means to incorporate chitosan into/onto some of the biomaterials being tested. A selection of biomaterials were examined for their ability to support tissue growth in native and surface modified forms (plasma treatment/ chitosan treatment). Cells were seeded on the samples and the growth of the cells was measured at weekly intervals. The outcome of this research was that the optimal material for soft tissue repair was found to be polyurethane with an ammonia plasma treatment. This can be made into a mesh prosthesis for hernia repair and can be coated with chitosan to inhibit bacterial colonisation if required.
Ex-situ and in-situ characterisation of polypropylene fibre morphology by scanning probe microscopy and environmental scanning electron microscopy
(Heriot-Watt University, 2003) Risnes, Ole Kristian
Experimental and numerical studies of thermoregulating textiles incorporated with phase change materials
(Heriot-Watt University, 2016-05) Iqbal, Kashif; Sun, Doctor Danmei
Phase change materials (PCMs) provide thermal management solution to textiles for the protection of wearer from extreme weather conditions. PCMs are the substances which can store or release a large amount of energy in the form of latent heat at certain melting temperature. This research reports practical and theoretical studies of textiles containing PCMs. Mono and multifilament filaments incorporated with microencapsulated phase change material (MPCM) have been developed through melt spinning process. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) have been performed for the characterisation of MPCM polypropylene filaments. The parameters for optimum fibre processing and their effect on mechanical properties of filaments with respect to the amount of MPCM have also been studied. A plain woven fabric has been constructed using the developed MPCM multifilament yarn. The heat transfer property of the multifilament yarn and fabric has been investigated using finite element method. The time dependent thermoregulating effect of yarn and fabric incorporated with MPCM has also been predicted according to the validated models. The synthesis of Nanocapsules containing mixture of paraffins and Glauber’s salt as PCM and its characterisation using DSC and SEM has also been carried out. Polypropylene monofilament incorporated with the nanoencapsulated paraffins was developed and its properties have been compared to its MPCM counterpart. Furthermore the developed nanocapsules were applied on a cotton fabric via a pad-dry-cure process and the resultant fabric was evaluated using DSC and SEM in comparison with MPCM treated fabric. The research work described in this thesis has established a better understanding of use of phase change materials in textiles, the evaluation and application. It is anticipated that this research will broaden the understanding and potential use of encapsulated phase change materials in textiles especially in the field of active smart textiles.
An exploration of safeguarding cultural heritage textiles in Thailand : the perspectives from expected and unanticipated preservers
(Heriot-Watt University, 2022-07) Nirunpornputta, Pathitta; Kalkreuter, Britta; Thomas, Sue
This thesis aims to explore safeguarding culture in both tangible and intangible heritage relating to textiles in Thailand. The thesis contributes to understanding the foundations of local cultural heritage practices relating to textiles, contemporary practices of preserving those heritage textiles, and perspectives on ‘preserving heritage’ from different fields of participants who have been involved with conserving heritage textiles. The research combined participant observation with practice-based auto-ethnography and gathered further data through in-depth interviews and a focus group. The research focuses on key actors involved in safeguarding the cultural weaving heritage in Thailand through their contribution to textiles practices. The key actors are divided into three main groups: local practitioners, unanticipated preservers, and expected preservers, by doing so, they present how people from different fields can be part of safeguarding cultural heritage activities. With key actors from various fields, including local textiles makers, Buddhist monks, fashion designers, businesswomen, authorities, academics, and foreigners based in Thailand, the research explores their various modes of involvement in safeguarding cultural heritage textiles, identifies their common problems and considers their suggestions for designing a potential framework (to model ways) to safeguard heritage textiles. A key theme emerging from the fieldwork was the importance of educating producers and customers wishing to support local craft as part of a fashion business, especially in developing countries. Findings from this case study in Thailand, a country rich in craft but experiencing the familiar stresses of local products being undercut by imported fashion, offer lessons for other countries and regions suffering from decreased consumption of local makers. The case considers the continuation of direct craft consumption and local craft products into local fashion against current economic trends of global fashion production turning to local crafts. The fieldwork mainly collected data from local communities in Northern Thailand, especially in the so-called ‘Lan Na Kingdom’, where local culture and Buddhist practices are heavily intertwined with heritage textiles. The research uncovered many challenges to forging successful collaborations between local craft makers and global design players; amongst other things, it found arguments and misunderstandings on the purpose of specific design approaches, issues with lack of recording practice, the willingness to educate and thus enable to continue heritage skills, and the interest in being part of present global fashion demands. After careful reflection and analysis, the thesis can suggest solutions to such issues, with particular emphasis on how to link sustainability themes to safeguarding heritage textiles concerns, with conclusions reaching beyond the specific field studied in this instance.
From the loom to wear : shapeable woven textiles from seamless fashion
(Heriot-Watt University, 2019-09) An, Kang Hyun; Keith, Doctor Sara; Kalkreuter, Doctor Britta
There are various approaches in fashion and textile research which focus on how design processes could minimise environmental impact in order to make a more sustainable fashion and textile industry. One such approach is seamless or whole garment knitting technology, which results in much less fabric wastage than the ‘cut and sew’ method of garment manufacturing. However, seamless approaches in woven textile design have not been fully realised due to the characteristics of the woven fabrics. Moreover, research in seamless weaving has often focused on textile engineering and medical uses, and there has been little research into their use in fashion. In this research, a design practice of shapeable seamless woven garments is proposed as an alternative way of combining shapeable woven textiles and tubular weaving construction that leads to creative seamless garments that are versatile. Based on the action research process, this practice-based research examines five stages (planning, exploring, prototyping, observing and reflecting) that are used to transform woven textiles from the loom into fashion garments. The research explores three-dimensional and textural surface effects and different degrees of shrinkage of shapeable woven textiles that show inherent stretchability. In the prototyping stage, a series of shapeable seamless woven garments were created through both hand-weaving and the Jacquard weaving process. At this stage, the research demonstrated how 2D woven textile designs can be transformed into 3D fashion forms, and how prototype garments can be fitted on the body and worn in many different ways. In the observing and reflecting stages of the research, a questionnaire and focus group were conducted in order to assess external perspectives on, and evaluation of, practical outcomes of the research, i.e. specifically shapeable woven textiles and the effectiveness of the prototype designs. The research is capable of providing a creative way of designing seamless garments based on shapeable woven textiles by integrating key design considerations such as stretchability for adaptable fit, three-dimensional textural effects, versatility of prototype garments and material selection. By examining the above features, the research evaluates how the design process and practical outcomes enhance the product lifecycle and contribute to circular design and sustainability in fashion and textiles.
Geometrical modelling and numerical analysis of thermal behaviour of textile structures
(Heriot-Watt University, 2015-08) Siddiqui, Muhammad Owais Raza; Sun, Doctor Danmei
The thermal properties of fabric are an important factor in the understanding of the thermo-physiological comfort of clothing. The principal aim of this research was to develop novel numerical methods, Graphical User Interface (GUI) plug-ins and experimental setup to evaluate the effective thermal conductivity and thermal resistance of different textile structures which has significant impact on the thermal comfort of clothing. The numerical methods also include the analysis of the effect of fibre orientation, thermal anisotropy of fibre, temperature dependent thermal conductivity and fibre volume fraction on the effective thermal conductivity and thermal resistance of textile fabrics. The research covers the development of geometrical models of woven, knitted, nonwoven and the composites fabric structures, evaluation of their thermal properties by using finite element method, creation of user friendly plug-ins and the extended application tools. Micro and mesoscopic scale modelling approaches were used to investigate the effective thermal conductivity and thermal resistance of textile structures. Various techniques, including scanning electron microscopy, x-ray microtomography and experimental method have been adopted to obtain the actual 3D dimensional parameters of the fabrics for finite element analysis. Research revealed that, the thermal anisotropy of fibres, fibres material orientation and temperature dependent thermal conductivity of fibre have significant impact on the effective thermal conductivity of fabrics because experimental and simulated results were highly correlated with the consideration of above mentioned factors. In addition a unique technique has been developed in modelling fabric coated by microencapsulated phase change material for temperature stable textile and clothing system. User friendly GUI plug-ins have been developed to generate both microscopic and mesoscopic scale models for finite element analysis. The plug-ins were developed by using Abaqus/CAE as a platform. The GUI Plug-ins enable automatic model generation and property analysis of knitted fabrics and composites. Apart from finite element analysis of various fabric structures, an experimental device has been developed for testing thermal conductivity of fabrics which is capable of testing small sample size within very short period of time. The device was validated by commercial available apparatus for testing of fabric thermal conductivity.