Heritage and innovation in the crafts of weaving : ethnographic insights between Scotland and Thailand and new approaches to traditional cultural engagement

Abstract

The development of traditional textile crafts is connected to history, culture, and economics. Traditional textiles play an important role in reflecting the material cultures of the two different regions considered in this research and their unique geography, identity, and cultural heritage; at the same time, the study of heritage and incorporating innovation are seen here to drive the sustainable future of design development. This research aims to examine the cultural significance and challenge safeguarding of weaving crafts by focusing on heritage and innovation. To achieve this, the research will investigate textile production processes between Thailand and Scotland, as a representation of Europe and Asia, to understand the varied relationships between heritage and innovation. In order to gain insights, the research triangulates methods, including desktop research, ethnography observations, in-depth interviews, and practice-based reflection from the researcher’s own experience. The findings illustrated that heritage is perceived differently in these areas of study. In Scotland, narrative storytelling plays a key role in uniting the country's heritage and identity. This heritage includes industrial elements and centres around materials, locations, and historical context rather than the actual process of making. Conversely, in Thailand, heritage is closely linked to local skills and remains connected to the manufacturing process. The focus remains on the craftsmanship and processes of creation, with industrial innovation situated on the periphery rather than at the core of cloth making. However, it also found that the perspectives on heritage can vary between insiders and outsiders. The research explored how traditional Thai silk weaving techniques might be used on a loom in Scotland. Gibbs' reflective model was adopted to analyse and discuss the situation and feelings while examining the factors that contributed to the value of these traditional techniques. A set of visual sign designs that can effectively communicate with a universal audience was developed through data gathering and content analysis. This research thus delves into the possibilities of innovation in fabric production as well as heritage. Unlike most studies, it does not solely concentrate on innovation in processes, materials, and design, but the research outcome provides innovative tools, including a deck of cards, cloth tags, and website, to approach broader stakeholders. The purpose of these tools is to educate makers, designers, and consumers, with the aim of enhancing and extending intangible cultural heritage. These tools demonstrated that universal symbols of the entire fabric-making process can allow stakeholders to consider whether traditional or innovative production techniques had been used. The cards encourage makers and designers more creative opportunities to explore new experiences related to traditional concepts and innovative ideas around textile development. The cloth tag and website enable consumers to understand the fabric provenance. These tools were examined through the workshop as well as public engagement. This feature is also particularly helpful for those who are not knowledgeable about the products they are buying. It might also reflect the stakeholders' behaviours in relation to sustainable fabric usage in the future. Therefore, the research approach amplifies the perspectives of practitioner academics, designers, and stakeholders who are potential customers or users, illuminating the value of heritage textiles.